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Form & Fitness Q & A: Recumbent biking (KNEES)

Discussion in 'Health and Safety' started by A.D., Sep 2, 2008.  |  Print Topic

  1. Geyatautsilvsgi

    Geyatautsilvsgi Supporter

    Region:
    SouthEast
    State/Country:
    TN
    City:
    Seymour
    Ride:
    ?
    Name:
    Geyatautsilvsgi
    I will agree with this. Since I've been riding more,I've been practicing on the hills around the loop where I live. I'm getting better, just keeping a moderate cadence going up the hills with relaxed feel...seems to be working fine. :yes9:
     
  2. calboy147

    calboy147 Email Defunct

    Region:
    East
    State/Country:
    CA
    City:
    Newberry Springs
    Ride:
    noname trike
    Name:
    gene
    Hang on Buddy! My normal average is about 9 mph as well. You gotta remember i was trying to make sure i could do the "Ride For a Breast."
    That gave me a lot of determination...:jiggy9:
     
  3. calboy147

    calboy147 Email Defunct

    Region:
    East
    State/Country:
    CA
    City:
    Newberry Springs
    Ride:
    noname trike
    Name:
    gene
    I guess i will stick to what i know works, at least till after the charity ride. But do i need to try to get this cadence thing down before i start a serious ride in the spring? I suppose 3 years of doing it wrong every day may have got me wired wrong.
    And if i go the smaller cranks;( if in fact mine are longer) will that help me not be a Weeble?
    I hope when Buddy gets my age he will see just how bad i was struggling and put me back on his list...lol :tongue9:
     
  4. A.D.

    A.D. #1 Custodian

    Region:
    SouthEast
    State/Country:
    TN
    City:
    Athens
    Ride:
    Reynolds T-Bone
    Name:
    AD
    :laugh: Just changing the syntax of the Ride Name that (tiny) little bit, would probably bring in more male riders than they could ever possibly handle. :wink9:

    Meanwhile Gene, whatever works for ya, just works I guess! If/when you ever find your legs tiring earlier in a multi-hour ride, then consider trying out a set of Crank Shortners just to see what they're like sometime.
     
  5. calboy147

    calboy147 Email Defunct

    Region:
    East
    State/Country:
    CA
    City:
    Newberry Springs
    Ride:
    noname trike
    Name:
    gene
    Thanks A.D. that is my new plan. Do you think that will also help with the wobbles?
    On an alternate vein; after about 50 miles or so i noticed the last 2 or 3 toes on each foot were burning. I have new pedals and cleats and have no ideal if i put the cleats on properly. So any ideals on where to start to fix that? I am going to make it to Alaska this spring come hello or high water, and am concerned with these problems i do not recall encountering on my last inter coastal jaunt. :jiggy9:
     
  6. A.D.

    A.D. #1 Custodian

    Region:
    SouthEast
    State/Country:
    TN
    City:
    Athens
    Ride:
    Reynolds T-Bone
    Name:
    AD
    Are you still on your trike Gene? If so, explain the wobbles? If you're referring to pedal steer, usually it's induced by either mashing too hard on the pedals (vs. spinning), or having your pedals too far from your hips causing one to (typically) tilt their hips in order to 'reach' the pedals effectively.

    You can induce pedal steer on most tadpole trikes when you reach the upper end of the gear range by pedalling really fast (high rpms). The standard 3 X 8 or 3 X 9 gearing on a trike is quite low compared to what is found on a road bike. That's why the more expensive trikes with 20 inch drive wheels resort to internal geared rear hubs and specialized front drives (e.g., Schlumpf drives). They add a lot to the cost of the trike but sure do make a difference in the usefulness. source pedal steer causes

    As for news shoes, watch how 'tight' you strap them onto your feet. Personally, I always position my cleats as far back (towards the heel) as the two slots will allow. That's always worked for me, but I'm not sure why one might want/need to position cleats more towards the front of the shoe. :confused9:

    If Mike sees this post, he's been around long enough he may know why. :cool9:
     
  7. calboy147

    calboy147 Email Defunct

    Region:
    East
    State/Country:
    CA
    City:
    Newberry Springs
    Ride:
    noname trike
    Name:
    gene
    I think it may be the high rpms. I did sense that hamster feeling someone mentioned. I will try to adjust the cleats. Old shoes but new cleats and like i said i have no knowledge about how to properly install them. :jiggy9:
     
  8. laidback cyclist

    laidback cyclist Supporter

    Region:
    NorthEast
    State/Country:
    OK
    City:
    Broken Arrow
    Ride:
    Ti Rush/V-Rex
    Name:
    Mike
    Coaching advice I have read groups cadences by the type of riding you are doing. Touring riders would aim for a cadence between 70-80 rpm; racers 90-100 rpm; and track racers 140 rpm.

    Everybody has a particular cadence which is the most comfortable and efficient for them. However, this particular cadence varies with crankarm length, bike design, and riding position (i.e. Bottom Bracket to seat height, amount of seat recline, reach to the pedals, etc.).

    Switching from 175mm to 155mm cranks will most likely increase your comfortable cadence by 10-15 rpm. Experiment with your riding position to dial in your most comfortable and efficient position. Don't be afraid to fiddle with it. Sometimes a small change can make a big difference.

    Training also affects cadence. You can train yourself to increace your comfortable spin rate by adding super fast spinning (above 120 rpm) sessions to your workout.
     
  9. calboy147

    calboy147 Email Defunct

    Region:
    East
    State/Country:
    CA
    City:
    Newberry Springs
    Ride:
    noname trike
    Name:
    gene
    Thanks guys, i appreciate all the advice. I will fiddle with the seat a bit first. I keep thinking i need a bit more recline anyway; but i do not like lying on my back to begin with; so that may take some getting used to.
    I will also determine my crank arm length and see if i can't improve my cadence there.
    If all else fails i may just try the short rides and force myself to do the approved cadence and see if i get used to it or give up riding.lol :jiggy9:
     
  10. laidback cyclist

    laidback cyclist Supporter

    Region:
    NorthEast
    State/Country:
    OK
    City:
    Broken Arrow
    Ride:
    Ti Rush/V-Rex
    Name:
    Mike
    Gene,

    You approve what is right for you. There is always a trade-off between cadence and leverage. What you are looking for is a balance that feels comfortable to you that does not put too much strain on your knees. Very low cadence (around 50 or less) in a high enough gear that you have to really push hard on the pedals is what tears up knees.

    Pain at the front or back of the knee is related to pedal reach, too close causes one and too far causes the other (but I don't remember which position causes which type of pain). If I remember correctly, pain at the side of the knee can be related to cleat position if you are using a pedal system that does not have much float.

    If you are using a low float (4-6 degrees) pedal system having your cleats RADed (Rotational Alignment Device) can help a lot. The RAD is part of a bicycle fitting system. Not all bike shops have this equipment but if you can find one that does check into it. Alternately you can use a pedal system with a lot of float like Frogs.

    The other thing I can think of that might cause pain at the side of the knee is too narrow a Q-Factor (distance between pedals). I find Kneesavers to be a great help. These are simple little devices that screw into the crankarms then your pedals screw into them widening the space between your feet.

    http://w.mawebcenters.com/scorccc/ecommerce/
     
  11. calboy147

    calboy147 Email Defunct

    Region:
    East
    State/Country:
    CA
    City:
    Newberry Springs
    Ride:
    noname trike
    Name:
    gene
    Thanks Mike, I will call around tomorrow and check on the RAD.I have the Knee Savers and i like the improvement. But you are right because the pain was the outside of my knees. The high rpms just made my legs burn and get so rubbery real fast.
    I could barely get off the bike they were so shot. Just after 4.4 miles. :jiggy9:
     
  12. A.D.

    A.D. #1 Custodian

    Region:
    SouthEast
    State/Country:
    TN
    City:
    Athens
    Ride:
    Reynolds T-Bone
    Name:
    AD
    Well said, and per the first post in this thread...
    1) If the pain is front centre around the knee cap, increase knee extension by increasing the saddle-pedal distance

    2) If the pain is to the front but off to one side or the other of the knee cap, consider increasing extension but also pay attention to whether the angle of your foot on the pedal matches the natural angle of your foot, or if you are twisting your knee by the positioning of the foot on the pedal.

    3) If the pain is in the hamstring tendons or behind the knee, decrease knee extension by decreasing the saddle-pedal distance.

    Adjust about 5 mm at a time. If the suggested adjustment makes things better but not good, or doesn't change things, try adjusting more. If the suggested adjustment makes things worse, go the other way. When you get it right, you'll know almost right away. If you have no pain between rides, your knees are in good enough shape that you should have no pain riding appropriate distances and cadences on a well adjusted bike.


    :biggrin: After reading what you said Mike, now #2 makes better sense above.(i.e. "angle of your foot on the pedal", which kneesavers can help to straighten out, especially if you have wider hips)
     
  13. laidback cyclist

    laidback cyclist Supporter

    Region:
    NorthEast
    State/Country:
    OK
    City:
    Broken Arrow
    Ride:
    Ti Rush/V-Rex
    Name:
    Mike
    Thanks A.D., that spells it out pretty well. Don't forget cleat placement as part of #2 as well. When I used SPD's I had my shoes/cleats RADed. It made a big difference in how my knees felt.
     
  14. A.D.

    A.D. #1 Custodian

    Region:
    SouthEast
    State/Country:
    TN
    City:
    Athens
    Ride:
    Reynolds T-Bone
    Name:
    AD
  15. A.D.

    A.D. #1 Custodian

    Region:
    SouthEast
    State/Country:
    TN
    City:
    Athens
    Ride:
    Reynolds T-Bone
    Name:
    AD
    Castor Oil (fix) for your Knees??

    The following paragraphs are quoted from Average Joe's Cycling Blog, which is a great resource for any cyclist! :yes9:

    ...I have also tried every kind of recommended cure for cycling knee pain. I have gone through more expensive tubes of Arnica cream than I care to remember. Therapists have manipulated my knees, causing extreme pain as they tried to remove the accumulated toxins that were, apparently, causing my cycling knee pain. Other therapists have injected Arnica directly into my knees (NOT as much fun as it sounds), and still others have stuck needles into random parts of my body in an attempt to craftily defeat the cycling knee pain via the ancient wisdom of acupuncture.
    Thanks to all these therapies, I have blown through enormous quantities of extended benefits, as well as huge amounts of my own hard-earned money.
    And as a result of all these remedies and therapies … absolutely nothing happened.
    The cycling knee pain remained, and I continued to be terrified that as age advanced on me, my knees would betray me completely and cycling would be pushed away into a sad, dark corner of might-have-been’s and used-to-be’s.

    Then one day my naturopath made a suggestion that I thought was completely insane – as well as probably very messy. So of course, even though I was paying about $100 an hour to benefit from her wisdom, I completely ignored her. I continued in the ways of my own ancient wisdom, wisely throwing away money on therapies and remedies that patently didn’t work.


    After about another year of this blatant (and expensive) stupidity, I finally caved and decided to try the insane and very messy suggestion. One evening, scarcely able to walk, but about to go off and cycle hundreds of miles in Montréal, I was desperate enough to actually try her suggested cure for my cycling knee pain.


    This is what I did: I bought a bottle of castor oil for $3.95 (including tax). I pulled my moth-eaten $20 heating pad out of the dusty recesses of the bathroom cabinet (the thing that Maggie refers to as the “old-lady pad”). Then I smeared castor oil on my knee, put a kitchen tea towel on top of that, covered that with a plastic shopping bag, and topped it all off with the heating bag. Very attractive. (Fortunately, I have a leather couch, so no great harm was done to innocent furniture.)


    I left it on my right knee for 15 minutes, and then switched to my left knee. It was oddly soothing, considering that I have always been taught that inflammation needs cold, not heat. Then I put the whole messy heap away, shaking my head at my own desperation.
    The next morning I woke up, and the cycling knee pain was gone! Yes, really. I got on my bike that day and cycled like I was 12 again.
    source My Miraculous, Cheap Cure for Cycling Knee Pain
     

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